Building a Jarcat 6 - Part 3
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The keels were built up using laminations of 20mm meranti. Note that I placed the first lamination on the flattened keel and then cut tapers on the subsequent laminations so that their top edge was level. The final lamination the spanned from near frame 2 to the rear of the keel..
Note that at this point the chine and keel edges have been shaped and the plywood skin sealed with a TPRDA / epoxy resin mix.
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After filling any imperfections in the hulls (mainly topping up where I had filled over the screw heads) I moved onto the glass sheathing.

I used a fibreglass cloth weighing 84 grams per square metre for the sheathing. This was smoothed over the hull and held in place using staples. I had to hold my gun a fraction away from the plywwod so the staples did not drive flush. With the cloth smoothed I used a paintbrush to apply a coat of epoxy resin and after wetting out an area used a squeegee to push the wetted cloth against the ply skin and remove excess resin. As the resin starts gelling fairly quickly in the summer temperatures here I only mixed about 150 ml at a time. I achieved a good smooth surface with the cloth fully wetted and the fabric weave showing with the first coat of resin. Once this first coat had set and while it was still a bit tacky I applied another coat of resin to fill the weave in the cloth.
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Well progress came to dramatic halt in early February when I broke my arm and dislocated my shoulder. I fell off my bicycle whilst riding home from touch football and failed to make a serious impression on the concrete  footpath. So for the next seven weeks I was in plaster.
When I finally had the plaster off I thought I would be able to restart the painting but had not realised how sore my arm would be
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Luckily Marg was ready to give spray painting a go. We purchased an inexpensive direct drive compressor with a 40 litre tank and a gravity feed spray gun. We have been using products from Boatcraft Pacific in Brisbane and it was recommended that we use Aquacote epoxy high build primer undercoat. Marg had used this on her dinghy and found that she needed to do a fair bit of sanding when she applied the coating with a brush. The spray finish sounded like the way to go. Marg did some initial coats with the spray gun but with both of us inexperienced with spray painting we ran into trouble keeping the gun spraying enough paint. The undercoat starts gelling fairly quickly - especially in the warm days we have here in northern NSW -  maybe we didn't mix in enough thinners. Another problem was that the compressor could not keep up with the gun and we had to wait for the pressure to build up between runs. Needless to say I got frustrated with the process and decided to use a fur roller instead. This worked well with the finish requiring a bit of sanding. At least the paint went
I wanted to obtain the best finish on the hulls that I could achieve and purchased a water based polyurethane top coat that Marg had used on her dinghy. I had a finishing spray gun that I used on woodwork many years ago and tried to spray paint the topcoat over the sanded epoxy undercoat. I did not have much success. Obviously I am not a spray painter or I expect too much of myself. The paint went on patchy - overspray dots and when I tried to apply thinned paint I managed to create lots of runs. In desperation I posted a query on the Yahoo Jarcat group site and received several replies mostly indicating that the paint I had chosen was extremely hard to use.
Maybe it wasn't my ability solely. I ordered a different brand of paint ( two pack reaction lacquer) and after waiting for a week was able to attempt to spray this new product. The lacquer was nowhere near a safe as the polyurethane. It required thinners (as opposed to water) and had stringent safety precautions. I was however after a good finish so all fired up I mixed up the first 200ml of paint and filled the spray gun. Disaster!!! This paint was no better than the previous - my inability shone! I reverted to the original paint and a foam brush. This is what Marg had used on her boat and the finish was acceptable even though it showed some brush marks.
By sanding between coats with 240 grit wet and dry sandpaper I was able to acheive a reasonable (though not showroom) finish. At least I was progressing. I applied thin coat after thin coat till the surface was consistent with minimal brush marks.
I then used masking tape to define the design waterline (well actually just higher than the DWL) and brushed on two coats of epoxy antifouling paint. This paint contains a high proportion of copper and is very thick. It indicates that you can spray the paint but not how to thin it on the can. I used a brush (brushes ) and was satisified with the finish.
I discovered when applying the epoxy undercoat to the transom that by inserting a spacer ( a steel washer) in the needle trigger in the spray gun that the needle would open more widely in the orifice and allow the thick paint to be sprayed without clogging. How come you always seem to find out what you were doing wrong just near the finish......
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The final item was to attach metal strips to the bottom of the keels. To minimise electrolysis with the copper in the antifouling I chose brass for the keel strips. The metal was attached with countersunk brass screws and set on a layer of epoxy filler. I made sure that the screw holes were primed with epoxy filler prior to screwing home. A pair of  mini keels has been cut from brass angle and will be fitted to the inside face of the keels once the boat is turned and on its trailer.