Building a Jarcat 6 - Part 7
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The rudder cheeks were constructed from 12mm ply with cedar spacers. The inside of the cheeks were given a layer of fibreglass cloth before painting and gluing together.
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After carefully assembling the rudder cheeks ensuring that excess glue was removed from the inside, triangular sections were glued to the top as shown in the plans. A bar connects the rudder cheek assemblies and provide for "ackerman" steering similar to a car.
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Here the rudder holders are assembled on the transom with the connecting bar in place. Note also our new Honda 10 hp four stroke outboard has been installed onto the false transom. The shaping on the transom is to allow the motor to tilt up as much as possible.
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The rudders were given several filler coats of "Luxepoxy" followed by several coats of "Luxethane". I had some aluminium washers made to go between the rudder blade and cheeks.
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With the topsides finished I sheathed the whole topsides with a light fibreglass cloth and epoxy resin. This was followed by multiple coats of Luxepoxy and then several coats of Luxethane. The final coat was buffed back to a satin finish. I was not at all happy with the finish I had achieved with the Aquacote and decided to repaint the hulls.
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The widows were cut in the cabin front and sides and the area around the openings given a coat of black paint. I purchased some polycarbonate for the windows and this was bolted through the window and cabin sides with a generous ribbon of sealant around the edges.
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I had to drape the topsides with thin plastic to protect them from overspray when the hulls were repainted. I did the inside of the hulls first.
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And then covered that and sprayed the outside of the hulls.
I was satisfied with the finish "off the gun" and did not buff the hull paint.