Building a Jarcat 6 - Part 6
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(This was really done at the same time as the cabin roof but I am trying to keep descriptions of like sections together.)
 
The coaming face was cut from 4mm plywood and the coaming top fashioned from a length of cedar. After carefully determining the angles, bevels were planed on both edges of the cedar.
 
Here you can see the beveled cedar sections glued and screwed to the seat top, the coaming face and the coaming top all in place. Note the cedar glued to the cabin bulkhead to support the inner face of the coaming. The inside of the coaming has been given a coat of epoxy/preservative. Just visible is the ply butt joint backing, inside the coaming, at the join between the coaming face and the cabin side. I also used a 6mm ply backing to thicken where the coaming rises to the cabin roof. Don't forget to drill a hole down through the seat top and int the rear watertight chamber to provide a breather for the inside of the coaming.
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I purchased some hardwood "D" moulding and and screwed this to the cockpit floor. (The material purchased formed two of the cross pieces but when I tried to get more moulding it was unavailable so I ended up having to plane and sand a piece of hardwood to the same profile.)
Fillets were formed around all edges on the cockpit floor.
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Once all the woodwork had been finalised I started on giving the exterior of the topsides a coating of 85gm/sqm fibreglass mat and epoxy. The floor of the cockpit and the foredeck were both done with 195gm/sqm fibreglass mat.
The block mounted on the transom is to take the tiller pivot bolt. I decided to use a bolt rather than a pintle mainly as I had recently purchased the pintles and gudgeons for the rudders - a a price of over $25 for each item.
I did add an extra stiffening board on the inside of the transom at the bottom of the opening where the tiller goes through. This was to help take the strain that is placed on the plywood by the lower tiller pivot bolt block.
During the epoxy covering process 19mm holes were drilled through the cockpit floor to act as drains.
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Along with the exterior topsides , the hatches were also covered with fibreglass mat and epoxy resin. Then came several coats of epoxy primer /undercoat. I switched to Dulux "Luxepoxy" as I found that I was able to spray this product and achieve a reasonable finish.
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After several coats of the primer (wet sanding between each coat) I achieved an acceptable finish with most imperfections filled.
 
I used Dulux "Luxathane" for the finish coat, again because I was able to spray this paint and achieve a reasonable finish. Both the Dulux products are industrial type paints but I was reassured that they would suit the exterior of the boat. I had also received advice on the Jarcats Yahoo site that others had used these products satisfactorily
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Here are the two hatches. The inside paint is a single pack polyurethane marine finish. Colour is listed as Pearl and it really is more white than this photo shows. The edges of the hatch are "Luxethane" and the darker area in the middle is a non skid deck paint.
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The stormboards were cut from 6mm ply. The only addition I made was to add a stiffening timber on the inside top edge of the lower stormboard. Like all the timber and ply in the boat these were given a coat of epoxy with preservative added before painting.
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The rudders were shaped from 18mm plywood and then given a strengthening layer of undirectional fibreglass mat on both sides.
 
After filling the weave with several coats of epoxy primer they were wet sanded to a smooth finish.
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As noted on the previous page the whole exterior of the topsides was covered with a layer of fibreglass cloth and epoxy. This was followd by a liberal brushed coat of epoxy primer. In this photo you may note that I have added rubbing strakes to the gunwale. These are from 12mm thick hardwood and I hope they will protect the edge of the deck ply from mechanical damage. (This actually bought the total width of the boat up to 2.515m so I had to plane the strales back to maintain an overall width of 2.5m - the legal towing width limit)
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The tack track had also been given strengthening layers of 195gm/sqm fibreglass tape before the primer.
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The inside of the cabin had also been receiving attention with all fillets sanded and filled where necessary. The inside was given a coat of epoxy with preservative. On advice (thanks Vic) I will not paint the inside until I have used the boat for a while and have figured out what internal furniture I want to install.