Building a Jarcat 6 - Part 5
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Having finally moved to our own house at Easter  I was able to unpack all the materials from the hull and get to work once again. The sealing up of the boat had worked extremely well as there was no sign of any moisture ingress. I switched my attention to getting the cockpit finished as the carport I was now building in was the access to the back yard an the boat would nedd to be moved in and out to allow builders to gain entry to extend the shed.
 The quarter berth areas had been given a coat of  epoxy with TPRDA (a dilution agent which allowed good penetration into the timber)
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The front to the seat/ quarter berth was cut from 4mm ply and glued and screwed to the inner stringer (this stringer needs to be bevelled to the slope of the seat front ). A piece of  45mm x 19mm cedar was glued and screwed to the top edge of the seat front and bevelled to the slope of the seat top.
 Timber seat supports were then notched into this timber and the chine. I rounded the bottom edge of the seat supports before gluing into position.
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Holes were cut in the seat fronts to take clear ports which would allow light and, when opened, fresh air into the quarter berth area. A similar opening was made in the seat front at the aft end. This port allows access to the sealed flotation chamber.
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Once the seat fronts were in position on both sides of the cockpit I added the framing for  the mast support bulkhead.
 Having read  comments about access to emergency equipment after a (dread the thought) capsize I cut two openings for ports in the bridge deck  that would allow access into the sealed mast support chamber  from underneath.
 Note that  one of the quarter berths  is up to its second undercoat and ready to glue on the seat top. I tried to paint as much as I could in the confined areas before the final seal.
 Once the aft water tight chamber had had its final coat of gloss enamel - I had also painted the underside of the seat in this area - Marg helped apply the glue and we screwed down the seat top. ( I had kept all paint away from the glue areas on both the framing timber and the underside of the seat.)

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This is a view of the quarter berth with the seat top glued and screwed on. Note the chainplate wedge glued to the side. (no paint in this area)
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The chainplate wedge is constructed of  three layers of 45mm x 19 mm timber glued into position. I had actually affixed the coaming on top of the seat and used the stainless steel purchased for the chainplate to ensure that the wedge was made to the correct size.

The glue joins under the seat top just need a little sanding and then painting of the interior can be finished.
(My interior paintwork consists of  TPRDA epoxy, primer coat, two coats of undercoat and two coats of gloss enamel )
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As we needed to get access to the back yard so that shed extensions could be carried out we moved the boat out of the carport and under a "temporary garage". This steel frame and polytarp structure was just big enough to cover the boat and, although not totally waterproof, at least provided protection from the sun and light showers. (Doesn't really rain often in the Burdekin but when it does it can really pour). Working on the roof, up close to the tarp, was hot and sweaty.
I finished the roof beams and noggins. At this point I also ran some electrical wiring for the internal lights and navigation lights on the front sides of the cabin. I glued blocks of cedar to the cabin liner and ran the wires down through holes in the blocks. A good dollop of epoxy filler worked into the hole after placing the wire sealed the cabin roof.
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Here you can see the double noggin and cross beam that will allow the hatch to be cut out once the cabin top is in place. Make sure to drill some holes down through the liner between the timbers so that you don't lose the position.
Once all the timbers had been faired I gave the timbers and the top of the cabin liner a coating of epoxy and preservative treatment. The underside of the cabin roof was also treated before gluing and screwing down onto the beams.
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Cabin roof on ready to be filed and sanded back to cabin sides and front.
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Next job was to cut out the hatch openings. Using the previously drilled holes I drilled upwards through the cabin roof and marked the hatch position. Then using a jigsaw I tried to carefully cut out the hatch. Marg was inside the cabin to provide support when the cuts were finally done.
This was not a comfortable postion to work in as I had to push up on the tarp roof and concentrate on the cut.
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Finally cut out ! Looking a bit rough but a rasp and sanding  soon tidied this up. At least now I didn't have to climb through the hole to get into the cabin.
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Pieces of cedar were used to add width and length to the section of cabin roof that had been cut out. This forms the hatch. The fore-aft edges of the hatch were rounded over by first planing and then sanding .
Also in this picture the guides that hold the storm boards in the cabin rear have been fitted. These have a groove routed in them for the storm boards to slide down.
I cut a piece of maple to glue to the front of the hatch opening. This extends 15mm above the cabin roof and should stop water blowing along the roof and into the cabin. The front edge of the hatch also extends down to cover this timber. The only drawback I see with this is that the hatches need to be installed from the front of the runners.