Building a Jarcat 6 - Part 4
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The hulls were levelled on the trailer and the trailer placed on timber blocks to stop any rocking. The straightness and level were checked regularly during the next construction phase which will "lock in" the shape of the catamaran.
Once all set up the fllets around the inner stringers in the anchor well were formed. The space between the stringers and the hull sides at the forward end of the anchor well was filled with resin /filler mix.
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At the same time I was filleting the stringers, chines and keel in the hulls. I found the best tool to provide a "nice" semi rounded fillet was a plastic measuring spoon (used backwards). These come in sets of about five sizes and are cheap. By producing fairly consistent smooth fillets I hoped to minimise any sanding later on. This seemed to work as mostly a fairly quick sand with a coarse sandpaper was all that was required to get the fillets to painting stage.
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The width of the floor was measured at about 300mm intervals and then marked onto 6mm ply and cut out. The floor fits on top of the bottom stringers and if you try to not make it  too snug a fit it is easy to lift up (and I guess it is easy for water to drain into the bilge).
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The dividers between the anchor well and the interior were cut to suit and holes cut for round hatches to be inserted. Stiffening of 20mm square cedar was epoxied to the edges and all corners filletted with epoxy filler.
 
The floors of the anchor wells were given a layer of fibreglass mat
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The support beams were then glued across the top of the anchor wells. Note the infill pieces on the centre line at the front of the anchor wells. These were from some scrap coachwood that I had and were to provide a solid mounting for the bow roller. The inside of the anchor wells were painted with epoxy filler and then a couple of coats of "Aquacote" polyurethane. As I was still having problems with the application of this paint the inside of the bow lockers (in the hulls) and the storage areas at the forward end of the bunk were painted with yacht enamel. Be careful not to paint the top edges as the foredeck needs to be glued down to all the supports.
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A sheet of 6mm ply was placed on top of the supports and all openings and edges traced onto the sheet from underneath. The outline was cut out and the two hatches carefully cut from the anchor well area. I carefully painted the "non glue" areas with epoxy and polyurethane paint before applying epoxy glue to all supports and screwing down the prepared foredeck. I quickly cleaned up the glue squeezed out around the openings and along the chines. The hatches worked well!
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Note that a small triangle of 6mm ply was required at the bow of eachhull to finish the foredeck.
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The cabin bulkhead was cut from 4mm ply - this is very flimsy. This was glued and screwed to the front of frame 3 with the central vertical support holding the bulkhead upright. Top edgings of two 19mm square cedar were laminated across the top curve of the bulkhead. The clamp in the left of the picture is holding  a carlin spacer being glued to the chine. Another spacer is attached to the rear face of frame 1.
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The front support for the cabin is cut and edged then glued and screwed to the foredeck.
 Note that I was working on the tack track at the same time.
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(Digression) I purchased a pre bent tack track and traced the curve onto a 6mm sheet of ply. This was glued into position with a suitably chamferred timber section on the forward side. The timber temporarily tacked on the rear face ( with plastic tape preventing the glue sticking) was the piece cut from the chamferred timber section.
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 Here timber has been glued and screwed to the forward face of the ply. It was quite easy to make the timber follow the curve. End pieces were glued into position. Note that I provided a "cutout" in the middle of the track frame to allow a bow roller to be mounted. This "cutout" has timber edging. after coating the inside of the tack track with epoxy resin the front ply was glued and screwed on, and fillets formed all the way around
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The carlins were glued and screwed in place from frame 1 to frame 3 and then the 4mm ply cabin sides were glued and screwed to these. A 19mm square edging was glued to the internal corner where the cabin side met the bulkhead.
 Note the pencil lines marking where the windows will be placed later and the ply packing at the rear of the cabin side. The cockpit seat top will fit under the cabin side later.
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This picture shows both cabin sides in place .
 I was now working to a schedule!
 I had obtained new employment in northern Queensland and needed to get the boat to a stage where it could be towed  to our new home. (about 1500 km). So the pressure was on to get the cabin roof in place and sealed with epoxy (at least)
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Temporary edgings were added to the inside top of the cabin sides (with plastic preventing any glue being able to stick to them) and cedar edgings glued to the forward end of the cabin sides. These were bevelled to take the cabin front. After a bit of mucking about with cardboard making a template for the front I managed to at least get the bottom edge fairly well fitting and proceeded to glue and screw to the cabin sides and central support . The bottom edge was then filleted both sides.
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I managed to cut the top edge of the cabin front incorrectly. Luckily it was too high! A length of pine was cut and screwed to the front strut and the vertical support on the bulkhead at the level of the cabin liner. Remember there is a curve along the cabin roof as well as across.
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 The lower cabin roof ply (liner) was cut as described in the construction manual. The 3mm ply is fairly flexible but will "stiffen up" once the cabin beams start being added.
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With the liner in place the edge timber was bevelled to suit the angle between the liner and the cabin sides. This timber was then glued to each side and the liner. Notches were formed on the inside face to accommodate the cabin beams. Note that the top edge is left proud to be planed back to the top of the cabin beams once installed.
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A strip of ply is cut to proved a backing strap for the butt join in the cabin liner. This is glued into place after the first of the cabin beams either side of the join is in place. I used small screws up through the liner and into the backing strap to hold it in place
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 I used some of the timber from the building jig to make a former for the cabin roof beams. I bent the beams around a large nail at the centre point and nails at the outer edges. The beams were laminated from two pieces of  19mm square cedar. Once the glue was set the beam was released from the jig, cleaned up, cut to length and glued into position on the cabin liner. Small screws up through the liner were used to attach the liner.
 I worked through the cabin beams adjusting the "bend" where necessary and managed to get all bar one in position before time ran out and I had to
  •   temporarily put the 6mm ply roof over the beams
  •   place most of the materials for the rest of the boat in the cabin, hulls and cockpit
  •  attach two sheets of ply over the cockpit
  •  seal all external surfaces with epoxy resin
  •  seal all joins with wide plastic tape
  •  prepare the boat and trailer for the long haul to northern Queensland
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With barely enough time to pack my own "stuff" before moving we were finally ready to change locations. Marg and I arrived in Ayr on December 1 2004 and moved into a rental property nearby. I started my new position on December 6 and Marg looked for a house to purchase. After finding a house Marg set off for our previous abode and finished packing and cleaning before the new owners took possession on December 22. She then ,with the help of a few friends (thanks greatly Guy!) readied the boat to travel and, accompanied  by our son Nathan, hauled the boat to Ayr.
 So started another period of inactivity as the house we were purchasing was leased till April. Therefore the boat remained "under wraps" until we finally moved into our own house.